NIIIIIICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! too bad it wasn't my SR/5 in that pic instead of yours though..... HA! The shop I am currently working in has been in business since 1969, and the other employees have been there for 30 some odd years, so know that finding a shop with old school ethics is rare these days. It looks as though I have found my source for hoses!!!! THANKS! We get all of our A/C stuff through a place in Nevada, called RANSHU they have really great prices and quick shipping, but don't see much listed in their catalog for 79 Corollas.... HA! Does your shop have a website? Technical question- since 134 molecules are smaller than R12, do any replacement 134 HOSES need to be a different, "less porous" special rubber compound than OEM? The more I think about it, maybe I should just tear the system apart, retrofit it to 134, and THEN check for leaks.....What are your thoughts? We still have an R12 machine, but charging it, leak testing, and recovering, over and over again, seems like too much work, and like you say- R12 is EXPENSIVE and on its way out. At least 134 is still available, for now....even at Wal-Mart! Well, gotta finish my coffee and head off to another exciting day of auto repair. Hey got another question- how do you post those nice big pictures, like the ones of your shop? Seems mine are just dinky little thumbnail pics....? THANKS again! Bill
its one of my fav pics. so i put all my pics on photobucket. they give 4 ways to copy a link to your pic. then paste it in the post. i think its cause your using the add attachment button. i know this is a pain, but i dont know any other way im sure there is lots of ways, but im not very good at using these things (computer). we used to get delivery twice a week from Ranshu. i had forgotten about them. a/c hoses have a layer to pervent the smaller 134 from leaking. they are called barrier hose. in the begaining they all said to change out all r12 hoses and orings. but later found that a used r12 hose, that is not leaking and had mineral oil through it, the oil plugged the pores and made its own barrier. i still run the oem hoses that came with the car. i have run both r12 and 134 and they still dont leak. i have seen hoses bleed, but not often. ok so you open the system up, each fitting and line, remove expansion valve. so our valve is in the evap box, so the box gets to come out. not hard to do. flush condenser and evaporator real good. if you have had a compressor fail, come apart inside, you will never get the junk out of the condenser and should replace it. you want all the oil out of units. any oil left will change the volume of oil you put back in. over charge of oil is almost as bad as air. with a good compressor, drain its oil also, this can take awhile some times. even if you stay r12, you dont know how much is in there. i even drained brand new pumps cause i had to know total volume, some times they dont tell what kind of oil they put in it. or how much. i dont like oil based solvents, they leave a film. only fast evaporating, like hexane. lots of shop air to make sure all has evaporated. the drier is the last thing you want to install. ambient moisture is enough to kill a drier in a few hours. so its the last thing hooked up so you can start your vacuum as soon as you can. and vac for as long as you can. hours if you can, over night, min of 1 hour after flushing to dry the system of solvent, longer is best. a humid day takes longer vacuum to dry it good enough. better post this, before i dump it
Last Edit: May 14, 2013 22:29:01 GMT -8 by Crash_X
ALL great stuff!!!!!!!!!!! THANKS! interesting you STILL have your original hoses on there- TOYOTA QUALITY, BABY!!! Sounds like the worst part will be replacing the expansion valve. The heater box looks like a bitch to get out. My kids car's heater valve is leaking, so that will be the time to replace it too, but Toyota says its no longer available. Do you know of any sources for a replacement? I have an extra "non A/C" hearer box with valve, blower, resistor, and core that looks pretty good, but would rather have a new one in there. Or maybe I wouldn't- the new, "Made in China" crap out there can't compare to OEM quality, even 34 year old oem!!! HA! on the other hand, the seals are probably dried out and with my luck, will get it all back together and have to do the whole job over again..... I think both of my compressors are fine, but will carefully examine the guts when I get them apart. At the class the other night, everyone got a cut out section of a new condenser on their desk. the passageways are PINHOLE size!!! instructor said what you did- you can NEVER flush out contamination from those! Oh and yea, was using the "add Attachment" button for my pics. guess I have something ELSE to learn before I can get good ones posted..... Well, thanks again for your GREAT tips here! gotta nother "exciting" day of car repair ahead....yippee? NOT! HA! later, Bill
Hi Bill nothing like toyota oem ! i still have my upper and lower rad hoses in my stash. they show no signs of rotting or any thing, i would trust them if i had to. dont open your comp inless you really want to get that deep. rebulding a comp. is like rebuilding a engine, theres a lot to it. and its not for every one to try. the heater box and evap box are 2 seprite units. evap comes out fairly easy. heater box is a pain. the heater valve has been unavalible for years cause its a thermal regulated valve. i changed it all over to a by-pass type next to the brake booster. its ugly, could be made to look better,but is the best way to help a/c by stopping heat flow into the core. mine is vac controlled by a thermal switch that runs a solenoid to open and close the valve. works great. yep, the condesor thing is because when a compressor comes apart its usually in a very hi side pressure, so the core is HOT and expanded, crap flows in and as the system fails , the core cools and locks down on all the stuff thats in it . even doing a live running flush, you cant get the cond hot enough for it to let go of the stuff.
Post by orgowner27 on May 16, 2013 20:06:12 GMT -8
Good evening, Ken! Read your last post yesterday, but didn't get a chance to reply. Yea, I didn't mean I was going to DISASSEMBLE my compressor. I just meant I would inspect the SYSTEM internally when I took it all apart, for any signs of "black death". As I stated before, the SR/5's A/C actually WORKED for several days after a simple evacuate and recharge! No bad noises from the compressor, either! TOYOTA QUALITY BABY! HA! Seems FORD compressors suffer from "black death" more than any other, from my experience. I did NOT know there were separate units on TE51's for heater and evap cores!! THANKS for that heads up! But, must admit, ya REALLY got me scratchin my head me when you stated, the heater valve is "thermally regulated"! Maybe I need to take a closer look, but always thought it was just a simple, cable operated, open-closed, water valve, ya know.... lawn mower technology? HA! Now, YOUR system, on the other hand, sounds quite a bit more sophisticated!!!! Would LOVE to see some pics of THAT set-up! Good point you mentioned about "helping the A/C by stopping heat flow into the core" This is a great reminder! THANKS! That cross section sample of a condenser we got in class, was from a new car. Impossible to flush, must replace those. understood.. But, old Corolla condenser passageways are much bigger, than those new, (improved?) pinhole size condensers, right? So, assuming the compressor has not suffered catastrophic internal damage, I should be able to blow some A/C flush solvent through it backwards, to remove the mineral oil, and be ok, right? Maybe plug one side closed, add solvent, and slosh it around a bit, and/or let it sit for an hour or so, to wick through any contamination, before blowing it out? You mentioned earlier, that you run a condenser from a later (82?) Corolla? Last time I was at Pick and Pull there was an 82 Corolla wagon in the yard.... hummmmm... any other interchangeable A/C-heater parts you would recommend I grab off of it while I'm there? One more question for ya before I forget to ask- it seems no matter what position the airflow mode lever is in, I ALWAYS have blower assisted, outside air coming out through the vents in the center console. Both my 79 TE51's the same. Does yours do that too? Normal or a problem? Think the cables are adjusted properly, cause air is directed to the defrost vents, when the lever is in "defrost" and air is directed to your feet when "heat" is selected. Seems theres no way to control or shut off those center console vents. The owners manual is pretty vague in their description of operation...any thoughts? OK, that should keep your head spinning for a while! HA! TOLD you I was gonna become an annoying PEST! HA! Well, TGI almost FRIDAY!!!!!!!!!!!! gotta go feed my dogs and then head to bed. maybe get out to the junkyard this weekend- will keep ya posted! Bill
good stuff Bill, your on top of it. happy to share with some one that knows what im saying. your on track about the things your saying. its dinner time so i will give you a bunch to read with your caffeine in the am.
yep, the thermal adjusting heater valve. cable controlled, but a thermal spring keeps it at a varied flow through the core for a more stable temp. hard to find and any oem unit is most likely to leak. my set up is the way to stop all hot water from your core. but my controls are a little involved. if i could draw with this crazy comp. i could show you the wiring and such. but i might have to scan my papers and post them that way. its not to hard if you do some wiring. same with the fan system, its not that complicated. i have put it in a few set ups and the its safe for almost any fool. including myself. my auto side has covered my butt a few times.
"Black Death", Ford was one of my most common veh. as im sure you see your fair share of them for other repairs. if the pump hasnt grenaded, then even some grey to black flim can be dealt with. so systems i would put a filter and switch before the condenser (switch is a hi pressure cutout so if the filter plugs it will break clutch circuit). this will save the condenser from chunks. a little more plumbing and kind of tight in our cars. yes the new stuff is much tighter in the passages. but 134 is smaller, and they are trying to get more surface to volume in the new cores. our stuff will pass some bigger particals but crap is crap! it gets stuck the same way and wont come out!!!!! you got the idea right about capping and soaking the cond. sludge type crap might need to soak, but if its that thick, you might want to look closer at the pump. look for fine flakes of silver or Teflon at any joint, 90* or place that a flake might stick. find just one and you can count on way more then you want. Fords made black death a real thing. but other systems wont always color up, and will just sent flakes with out any wear warning. (whitch is what it is . the warning sign that its wearing) the condenser i use is not a bolt in. not to many of my things go in that easy. its a fab. make fit type thing. the side wings under the core support have to be cut out on the pass side for air flow to the cores. i also made my own line from cond out to drier in and used a std, #6 x#6 (o-ring) drier that is easy to get and not as costly as "the proper unit" it was a theroy that proved out right, that cause 134 expands so much more then r12, and oem was moveing to big cap condesners. so i found one that almost fit and had more volume the the 75,6,7,8 units. helped lots. same with rad. i had a bigger hole, so why not go to the bigger rad. so you can see the extra size on the cores. from the filler neck over is all extra over the oem size. i think i did the math way back when, and it was something like 8 or 10 % more on both the rad and cond.
so that sends me to charge amounts with 134a. 60-90 % of what the r12 amount is. i cant even give you some round numbers cause its been so long. i will try to find my folders so to give you some better idea of the fluctuations, even with in the same model of car. (like i said, i have over 300 logged, good thing i kept records of them, and took them with me when i left. that is hit and miss rule, but works with most systems. i dont remember what my charge is, but i also have extra stuff in my sysem that messes the rules all up. things like a "suction throttling valve" , STV. its suppose to keep my evap at said pressure no matter how much the pump sucks under set pres. its a neat idea that i think helped "my" system some. i evac and charged so many times that even MY records dont list all of them . some where around 100. every time you evac, you remove oil. most times you cant tell how much, others you will get a oz. or 2 it depends on where the bulk of your "flowing" oil is when you recover.oil sits in a small "sump" in the comp. most pumps "start" with 6- 8 oz. of oil. then 1 for the cond. 1 for the evap. 1 for the drier. (2 for duel evap). some times if there is a lot of hose, you might add 1 more. this on the thought that all units are new and or flushed dry, and a drained comp. ok next up,,, so you said she worked for a few days then leaked out, you should beable to find a wet spot some where, at a fitting, the comp seal (at the front nut and behind the coil) if you cant find a spot, the it could be in the evap box at the ex valve, you can, if your good and lucky, take your small mirror and look inside the freash air/ rec box on the very far pass side. look towards the core. i believe the valve is visable from there. also look at the face of the evap core for lint, bugs and gen crap. you can clean this all when you break the box open to change valve. i like to know what is leaking BEFORE i open and clean things.
you asked,, "One more question for ya before I forget to ask- it seems no matter what position the airflow mode lever is in, I ALWAYS have blower assisted, outside air coming out through the vents in the center console. Both my 79 TE51's the same. Does yours do that too? Normal or a problem? Think the cables are adjusted properly, cause air is directed to the defrost vents, when the lever is in "defrost" and air is directed to your feet when "heat" is selected. Seems theres no way to control or shut off those center console vents. The owners manual is pretty vague in their description of operation...any thoughts?"
sounds like the flap from dash to lower is leaking. maybe. a lot of time the foam seal around the flaps fails then leaks air. some thing you will see when you open the heater box for the core, look at seals and foams and replace or improve as needed. im sure you can figure out what to do when you see it. the worst part is getting the dam box out. full console removal and center dash stuff. oh what fun. heater core is cheap!!! replace it. napa can get them. and you dont what to pull it twice LOL our air flow system it funky. it wasnt intended to have a/c. so it was a easy add in between the fresh/ rec box and the heater box. so, you can only blow hot air to the floor and def. but you can blow cold to any position. also, some side vents only opened to outside air and didnt hook up to the air/ heat sysem. others did. look under dash at dr side and see if the ducking goes to the firewall or is there a duct that run under steering.
owners manual is very crappy for anything more then where the fuses are or how work the the shoulder belt adjustment LOL
"OK, that should keep your head spinning for a while! HA! TOLD you I was gonna become an annoying PEST!"
nope, my head is always spinnin, (i try to keep it that way, works best for me that way) and i got more to say then you will want to hear at some point youll learn have a good friday ken
morning, Ken! well, sorry to hear your efforts were wasted AGAIN, but its ok, cause right now, I don't have time to read or reply anyway... headin out to the Vintage Racecar Event at Sonoma Raceway this morning!!! My buddy got FREE tickets! They have public "Parade laps" afterwards, and allow ya to go on the track! Last time, I took the yellow Liftback and had the crowd on their feet cheering, as I was FLAT out down the corkscrew, trying to pass the pace truck!!!! HA! Even the pace truck driver was giving me the thumbs up!!! HAD a blast! gotta run.... later, Bill
so cool, and free tickets to boot. what a great way to show off! hope you post some pics of it when you get time. thats the kind of thing i want to do with my car. hopefully i can get this one to look better then the last one. again, what a cool way to spend the day. have fun i get to weed eat some more. later, ken
Welcome all. Please take a monent and say some thing. what would make this a better site?
Crash_X: Really? someone has to have something to say!
Feb 7, 2013 21:22:34 GMT -8
Crash_X: Hello!! Any life out here?
Feb 10, 2013 18:52:10 GMT -8
Crash_X: ok, so, to those who might give a shit,,,
May 9, 2013 18:24:02 GMT -8
Crash_X: there is some new things on the MR2. got our silicone hoses and clamps. also its back in the car, but still lots of things to do to her
May 9, 2013 18:25:54 GMT -8
orgowner27: what year is the MR2? Got pics?
May 9, 2013 21:41:01 GMT -8
Crash_X: this one is a 92 with a 3sGTE, turbo. pics are on the MR2 board
May 9, 2013 22:36:30 GMT -8
Crash_X: the first was a 91, 5sFE
May 9, 2013 22:37:26 GMT -8
Crash_X: ok now theres some pics in the computer board. lets see what else is out there?
May 11, 2013 14:54:10 GMT -8
Crash_X: Dont miss the for sale board, there might be something you need!
May 25, 2013 14:18:12 GMT -8
781masshole: more gallory pictures
Jan 12, 2014 11:39:16 GMT -8
Crash_X: hope to add more pics soon on the MR2 ver2
Mar 20, 2014 9:50:32 GMT -8
Crash_X: Transplant/Resurrection of the Toy has began!!!!
Mar 28, 2015 13:20:40 GMT -8
Crash_X: Pics on the way. this is going to be a long task
Mar 28, 2015 13:21:16 GMT -8
Crash_X: so i finely got more pics posted. now if you all will post yours, then we all have good stuff to share
May 7, 2015 13:33:21 GMT -8
GinoX: Gosh, this takes me back to the early nineties when some of my cousins and me swapped in a Frankensteined 2TG with VW, Dodge and Chevy parts into this model Corolla
May 11, 2015 4:30:18 GMT -8
Crash_X: GinoX, this corolla has parts as old (model years)as '40s Studabaker and Desoto, and wiring that is'98 Acura.
May 11, 2015 11:09:36 GMT -8
Crash_X: with Chevy, Dodge and many other Toyota stuff in between
May 11, 2015 11:10:35 GMT -8
Crash_X: the old Black Toy is the one that was really Frankensteined (the whole car), the new one is more like his Bride, as in all the good stuff that worked will go to her
May 11, 2015 11:13:01 GMT -8
Crash_X: fresh post on the new toy in Transplant part 2
Aug 19, 2015 21:14:08 GMT -8